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The following is an article written about Carrig Country House by renowned Food
Critic Lucinda O'Sullivan for the
Sunday Independent Newspaper.
9th November 1997
Country Pleasures
Where did Arthur Rose Vincent choose to live with his second wife (who was French)
after he and his American father-in-law gave the wonderful Muckross House and
Estate at Killarney to the Irish State? Where else but
Carrig House at Caragh Lake, a mere three miles or so
from Killorglin, which was opened this summer as a country house and restaurant
by the urbane Frank Slattery and
his wife Mary.
This lovely Victorian house is set in enchanted gardens
and you are overwhelmed on arrival by stunning views of the lake and the mountain
backdrop. We found all this joy purely by accident!
We arrived in Killorglin without any dinner reservations and called down to the
Bianconi to find that they were full in the dining room, but a very pleasant
girl behind the bar
told us about Carrig House.
After
a short run out the road we were greeted with open arms
by Mr Slattery and in a flash he had us relaxing in
the delightful drawing room with aperitifs and menus. The dining room is elegant
and leisurely with large bay windows over the gardens to the lake, decorated
with a William Morris "Lemons" wallpaper creating a Victorian conservatory
feel, white linen napery, glistening glasses, big country house vases of flowers
and stripped floorboards all so peaceful and serene.
My beloved had warm salad of smoked duckling served with cognac and walnut dressing,
more than ample slices of the duck on a bed of greenery with strawberries, apple,
cucumber, yellow peppers, carrot ribbons and grapes. I had the fresh lobster
bisque flamed in cognac and served with a cassoulet of local seafood. This was
creamy gentle bisque with glorious big chewy prawns, mussels and scallops.
To
follow, breast of barbary duckling for me, which was pan-fried
in fresh herbs served in peaches and cassis jus. He had
the rack of spring Irish Lamb with a port and raspberry
glaze, cooked to pink perfection. Vegetables served by
the waitresses from big dishes were mangetout, celery sprinkled
with thyme, carrots, creamy gratin potatoes and boiled
potatoes. It is all good country house cooking and I can
tell you, you won't be hungry. We happily quaffed a bottle
of Di Martino Prima Merlot Reserve 1994.
All sorts of goodies prevailed on the dessert menu. Caragh
Make escargot (filled with cognac, chocolate praline and
with a home-made parfait glacé) tartlet of peach
with chocolate sauce and the like but as they say, enough
is as good as a feast. I blinked for a minute as I saw
who I thought was Michael Winner in the corner scoffing
a chocolate pudding but it was a gentle man of the cloth
who was a dead ringer!
All the tables were full and more people were in the drawing room having drinks
when we finished but tere was no air of any undue haste. People were laughing,
relaxing and enjoying themselves.
The way it should be - no fuss, hustle or bustle.
We reluctantly tore ourselves away and as we went out the gates through the magical
gardens my beloved actually broke into verse " I come from haunts of coot
and horn I make a sudden sally".
A captivating and glorious spot.
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